What is the difference with chemical peels?There are many chemical peels on the market these days. The most common are enzymes, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy
acid (BHA), trichloracitric acid (TCA), Jessner's and Phenol. There are two aspects of a peel that determines how
strong it is, pH and percentage. A lower pH with a higher percentage is going to be the strongest. Peels can also be buffered
or unbuffered.
A spa grade peel should be no less than a pH of 3.0. The percentage can vary, but are usually around
5-30%. I do not recommend getting a peel done under this pH unless peformed under the care of a medical doctor.
A medical
grade peel can and usually are less than a pH of 3.0 and have a higher percentage.
Enzymes -
These are the lightest and are widely available over the counter in masks, facial washes and body products. They are
derived from papaya-papain, pineapple-bromelain & pumpkin. They are used to "eat or digest" the dead skin cells.
AHA- These are usually gentle, but can be harsh if used incorrectly. They loosen the bonds between
the cells of the skin (staying in the skin usually), dermabrasion is reccomended after this peel to remove the cells
with broken bonds. They are derived from sugar-glycolic, milk-lactic, citric fruits-citric, apple-malic. Absorbed through
hair follicle. Water-based. No recovery time needed.
BHA- This is the most common peel for acne. It helps
kill germs as it clears the skin. It is derived from aspirin. Absorbs through sebaceouse gland. Oil-based. No recovery
time needed.
TCA- Great for sun damaged skin. It can scar over a 35% if not used correctly. This peel should
be applyed under a medical doctors care.
Jessner's- This peel is unique, it is made from 3 different ingredients.
14% Salicylic, 14% Lactic, 14% Resorcinol. I don't reccomend for dry or sensitive skin. You may look like you have a sunburn
after receiving this peel. This peel should be applyed under a medical doctors care.
Phenol- This peel will
remove extensive wrinkling, severe sun damage, scarring and pre-cancerous growths. Very strong and painful. The patient is
usually sedated. The recovery time is about 2-4 weeks. This peel should be applyed under a medical doctors care.
Colored eyeliner under the eye?!?!?That's right!! After applying your usually black, gray or brown on the top lid; try a different colored liner for the bottom.
This will give your eyes a fresh new look.
The most common colors I use are blue, green or purple on
the bottom.
Start at the outer bottom corner, just under(almost on) the lash line. Gently apply liner in short soft
strokes gradually moving towards inner bottom corner. Stop when you are about 2/3 of the way across bottom lash line. DO NOT
apply eyeliner all the way across, unless going for a dramatic night time or stage look. Try to stay away from using a dark
black liner on the bottom for daytime wear. If wanting a lighter daytime smokey eye try a purple or dark blue liner instead.
I have found that pencil liners are the most percise as long as they have a creamy consistancy. You never want to
pull the skin while applying near eye area. While MAC cosmetics might be my favorite, I have found that NYC brand liners
are also very nice and they are usually under $5 a piece.
3:09 pm
Are you using the right products?Everyone should know that the saying "you get what you pay for" also refers to skin care products.
A
good quality product is typically made with better ingredients. I am sure you see all the commercials about the "drug
store brands", stating they are the next big change in skin care and they can make you look 10 years younger just from
applying their cream. Drug store brand products are usually a gimmick. They stat that their active ingredients are the same
as a more expensive product. So, they may have the same active ingredients, but it tends to be alot smaller of a percentage.
Also the more inexpensive brand usually adds other ingredients for fillers in their products that are not very effective on
the skin.
Make sure the products you use do not contain alcohol, these will dry out your skin. Imagine buying this heavy
cream lotion for your body that stats its for dry, cracked skin - after you have beeen using it for 1 week your skin
is actually becoming dryer - so, you just put on more of the lotion - after 2 weeks your skin is even dryer than before. This
happens all the time - look at your ingredient labels.
It helps to get a cosmetic ingredients dictionary to help
with the process of buying products.
4:10 pm
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2009.11.01
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The following is a table consisting of skin types vs. skin conditions.
A
skin type is the skin you are born with, you have it all the time, you only have one type, it dosn't change but may vary depending
on lifstyle or environment.
A skin condition is a phase your skin may go through, it
can always change, you can have none, one or many at any given time.
Dryness is
a good example - You can have it all the time troughout your life (type) or just through a certain stage in your life (condition)
Click on the skin type or skin condition to learn more about it and what treatments and products are right for you.
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CONDITIONS
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Dry - Dehydrated
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Dry - Dehydrated
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Allergy Prone - Sensitized |
Allergy Prone - Sensitive - Redness
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Oiliness
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Acne
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Breakouts
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Combo
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Rosacea
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Normal
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Uneven Tone
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African American
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Aging Over Age 35
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Asian, Native American, Hispanic
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Pre-mature Aging Under Age 35
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Menopausal
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Structure of the Skin
Layers of the skin
1. Epidermis
Outermost layer of the skin. Thin protective layer with many nerve endings. Consists of 5-6 layers.
- Stratum Disjunctum
- Stratum Corneum
- Statum Lucidum
- Statum Granulosum
- Stratum Spinosum
- Stratum Gerinativum
Epidermal Cells
3
types of cells in the epidermis.
- The Melanocyte produces pigment called melanin
- The Langerhans is the immune cell (t-cell)
- The Merkel's are sensory cells
2. Dermis
Below the epidermis. Live layer of connective tissue. Consists of 2 layers
- Papillary
Layer
- Reticular Layer
3 types of
tissue that are present throughout (not in layers).
3. Hypodermis (subcutaneous fatty tissue)
The subcutaneous tissue is a layer of fat and connective tissue that houses
larger blood vessels and nerves. It regulates the temperature of the skin and the body. The size of this layer varies throughout
the body and from person to person.
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Layers of the Epidermis
Startinging
from top(outermost)
1. Stratum Disjunctum (3-4 layers)
- Dead layer - desquamating keratinized cells of the stratum corneum, these cells are partially
disconnected. When the corneodesmosemes bond breakes, desquamation takes place. Non-nucleated.
2. Stratum Corneum (20-30 layers)
-Horny layer - Contains soft keratin cells called keratinocytes, when these harden they become
corneocytes. Cells & oil combine here to form a protective barrier called acid mantle. Cells held together by corneodesmosemes.
Non-nucleated.
3. Statum Lucidum
(3-5 layers)
-Clear layer - only is present on palms of hands
& soles of feet. Translucent cells let light pass through. These keratinocytes contain clear keratin called eleidin. Forms
finger prints and foot prints. Non-nucleated.
4. Statum Granulosum (1-3 layers)
-Grainy Layer - Squamous cells
with small basophillic granuals in cytoplasm. Production of keratin and intercellular lipids takes place. Contain keratohyalin
and lamellar granuals. Desmosomes connect cells. Lost nuclei.
5. Stratum
Spinosum (8-10 layers)
-Spiny
Layer - Polygonal cells. Cells divide and change shape. The cell appendages that resemble prickly spines become desmosomes.
Begins to synthesize keratin. Langerhans cells present. Nuclei darkened, early sign of cell death.
6. Stratum Gerinativum/Basal (1-3 layers)
-Basal layer - Live layer. Tall cylindrical or cubodial cells. Cell mitosis (division) is
constantly taking place. Melanocytes and merkel cells present. Hemidesmosomes join cells to intracellular matrix, not another
cell. Nuclei.
